When travelling, we always make an effort to submerge ourselves in the local culture, whether it be participating in activities or simply observing, like in the case of markets. Inevitably, with a goal like that in mind it goes without saying that eating is central to our pursuit of local experiences, especially with our understanding that nothing ever really tastes the same as when it’s made on its home turf.
Korea’s food is distinct, yet diverse – many recognise famous dishes from its fiery red colour from the addition of red pepper paste gochujang (고추장) or powder gochugaru (고춧가루), by the barbecue grills sizzling with pork belly, or by the stone bowl dolsot (돌솥), used to make an endless variety of soups and stews.
South Korea’s low tolerance for mediocre food means you’d be hard-pressed not to find delicious restaurants on every corner and block. As such, we figure it’s a waste of time pointing out one specific restaurant for a bomb-ass soft tofu soup sundubu jjigae (순두부찌개), especially when there might be an equally or even more bomb-ass sundubu jjigae right outside your very accommodation. That’s why we figure it’s much more important to shed light on dishes which may not be as common, popular, or well-known in the diverse world of Korean cuisine, and a couple of great places on where to find them.
Cold Soy Milk Soup Noodles Naeng KongGukSu (냉콩국수)
While noodles are famous all over the world, cold noodles are far less common when it comes to Asian food overseas. South Korea has a diverse selection of cold noodles, possibly numbering more than any other country with such a dish, ranging from spicy, to soupy, to creamy. While dishes like naengmyeon (냉면) and bibim guksu (비빔국수) are often commonly found in Korean restaurants all over the world nowadays it’s far less likely to encounter a unique dish like kongguksu (콩국수).
Described as a cold soy milk soup noodle, it’s comprised of a thick, creamy white soup made from ground soybeans and served over thin flour noodles. Despite our experiences with a fairly wide range of cuisines and food we found it difficult to imagine what it could taste like, but Jos’ undying love of cold noodles meant it made it to our list of must-eats in Seoul.
JinJuJib (진주집)
Arguably one of the most famous restaurants for this unusual dish is JinJuJib (진주집), located just a few minutes’ walk from YeoUiDo Park beneath a shopping complex. One must first head down to the basement, then locate a huge restaurant that’s likely still bustling despite whatever hour you decide to turn up. This was the case during our 2:30pm visit, with a couple of late diners waiting to be seated, but thanks to efficient service and an unbelievable number of tables we were served our food before we could really figure out what was happening.
The menu is minimal, to say the least, consisting of four dishes in total: three noodles and jeobsi mandu (접시만두), or a plate of steamed dumplings. It seems common for each diner to order a bowl of noodles each and some dumplings between them, but with the monstrous size of the portions we stuck with trying 2 of what seems to be their most popular dishes.
The naeng kongguksu (냉콩국수; ₩11,000; US$9.10) seems to be their specialty. The soup is thicker than what we’d expected, though not quite dense but almost bubbling from the blending that the soybeans had undergone. Though it has a slightly grainy texture from the soybeans, this is mitigated when eating with the noodles, leaving a surprisingly decadent thick soup with a light, nutty flavour and the slightest umami from what could be a chicken broth. Despite its texture, the low-fat dish isn’t cloying, and it’s indescribably delicious when eaten with the side dish, a kimchi that is crunchy in texture and punchy with strong savoury, sweet, spicy, salty flavours, that accompanies the creaminess of the soup well. The combination of the chewy noodles in the soup with the flavoursome kimchi made for an unbeatable combination. This is Jos’ pick as one of her favourite eats in Seoul.
The other dish we ordered was bibim guksu (비빔국수; ₩9,000; US$7.45), a much more common cold noodle dish found even in restaurants overseas. This comprised of the same thin, chewy flour noodles, dressed in a red, spicy, savoury sauce and topped with pickled radish and strips of cucumber. Cold and refreshing, the sauce also had a hint of sweetness and was balanced well by the bright, crunchy pickled radish. There was also a generous splash of sesame oil which contributed to a nutty fragrance. The combination of textures and flavours made this dish moreish, and likely much more familiar dish to those who may not be so keen to try the creamy soy milk soup.
Nonetheless, with the size, price, and enjoyment of the two noodles that we had, we can easily say that we highly recommend a visit, especially if you’re in the nearby YeoUiDo Park area on a warm day. If you’re paying a visit, we recommend avoiding mealtimes so as to miss the crowds.
JinJuJib (진주집)
33 Gukjegeumyung-ro 6-gil, Yeoui-dong, Yeongdeungpo-gu, Seoul, South Korea
Mon-Fri 10am-8pm
Sat 10am-7pm (Closed Sunday)
Raw Marinated Crab GanJang GeJang (간장게장)
Sashimi is no longer a foreign concept in many parts of the world – raw fish is common all over the world, with very few pleasures matching that of a fresh catch sliced up and consumed as quickly as possible to appreciate the sweet, delicate flavours and textures. Variations of raw seafood dishes are also common, such as crudo or carpaccio in Italy, a similar ceviche in South America, or raw fish dressed in coconut milk or cream, common in Polynesia.
While raw shellfish is also enjoyed, it’s not as common to see raw crab on a menu, despite its popularity in South Korea. Crabs are cleaned, broken down, and dressed in a variety of marinades such as spicy red pepper sauces (yangnyeom gejang; 양념게장) or a milder, savoury soy sauce (ganjang gejang; 간장게장). Thanks to the salty sauces, it’s best eaten on hot steamed rice. You can find this luxurious dish as a side dish in some restaurants, but there are also restaurants that specialise in this unique delicacy all over the country.
Ahyeon-Dong GanJang GeJang (아현동 간장게장)
Thanks to a steady stream of celebrity visits and television appearances, this little neighbourhood restaurant in the Ahyeon neighbourhood sees a huge number of visitors daily, including a number of foreign tourists keen to sample the crab specialty. Located just a couple of minutes’ walk from Ahyeon Station (아현역), you’ll often find this little restaurant packed with visitors and may be asked to sign in to a waiting list at the door.
The traditional restaurant has a raised platform where the dining tables are positioned. Shoes are removed on this platform, and seats are taken on cushions on the floor. The menu is available in English, Chinese, Japanese, and Thai, thanks to the number of foreign visitors, and ordering is done by portion with a minimum of one per person. Each portion is reasonably sized, as it comes with fresh rice as well as a selection of side dishes. This is what makes the restaurant popular amongst tourists, as many others often have larger and more expensive portions, which may mean gambling on whether or not a party will like the dish. For those who are less keen on the idea of raw crab, there are also dishes like stir-fried pork, as a safe option.
We visited with a friend, and accordingly ordered 3 different flavours of raw crab. The first is the original soy sauce sea big crab (as described on the menu), also known as kkotge ganjang gejang (꽃게 간장게장). It is good to note that the price has increased since the filming of this video, and as of writing this, the dish was priced at ₩20,000 (US$16.50). The crabmeat is soft and a little blobby, with the slight ocean bitterness similar to that of oysters. The soy sauce dressing was pleasantly light, enough to season the crab and bring out its natural ocean flavour, a great choice for first-timers who want to sample this unique dish.
Our next order was the spicy marinated sea crab (small) (꽃게 양념 게장(소); ₩11,000; US$9.10). The dressing is very typically Korean, strongly salty and savoury with some balanced sweetness, and very strongly of gochujang red pepper paste. The redness of the sauce is, in this case, a good indication of its spiciness, which starts manageably strong and increases to sweaty, burning heat, in an enjoyable, moreish way, for those who love spicy food. While the sauce is delicious, it does mask a lot of the crab’s natural flavours, which might make for a good selection of you aren’t too sure you’ll enjoy the taste of raw crab. It’s great for chilli fanatics.
The last dish we ordered was the soy sauce marinated river crab chamge ganjang gejang (참게간장게장; ₩12,000; US$9.90), which we ordered to figure out the difference between this and the sea crab. It does have a slight difference in flavour, as Noms describes a little sour, but the difference is vague at best. If you’re only to choose one between the sea or river crab, it’s not significant enough to stress over the decision. Just enjoy the dish!
If you’re into seafood and love crab, this is a great spot to come to. Thanks to the number of foreign visitors it caters well to non-Korean speakers, with plenty of signage clearly labelled in English. If you’re in the area and are looking for something different, come early – though just be prepared to wait for a seat.
Ahyeon-Dong GanJang GeJang (아현동간장게장)
13 Gullebang-ro, Ahyeon-dong, Mapo-gu, Seoul, South Korea
Mon-Sat 10am-2pm; 5pm-9pm (Closed Sundays and public holidays)
Beef Tartare YukHoe (육회) and Live Raw Octopus SanNakJi (산낙지)
Once again Koreans prove their love of the concept that fresh is best. Two more dishes, one of which has gained international notoriety because of its potential ick factor – sannakji (산낙지), also known as live octopus, is not quite as unnerving as it sounds but only just. While the octopus (in most cases nowadays) is killed before it is chopped and served in sesame oil, the complexity of the creature’s nervous system results in reflexive actions, the wriggling of the severed tentacles. It isn’t for the faint of heart but fantastic for curious gourmands and adventurous eaters.
The other dish is much more familiar and often recognised as a beef tartare by western standards. Yukhoe, also stylised as yukhwe (육회), consists of slivers of raw beef, usually served with julienned Korean pear and a raw egg yolk. This can be served with marinades which vary by restaurant, and as do the parts of the cow used. For the most part, however, you can assume that yukhoe refers to the muscle meat of beef, as each variation using different organs will have different names accordingly.
HyeongJae YukHoe (형제육회)
Within the outskirts of GwangJang Market (광장시장), another popular traditional market, is an alley of densely-packed restaurants where you’ll often find hordes of people lingering during their opening hours. These restaurants all specialise in yukhoe and sannakji, drawing local crowds every night to the point where each has an efficient reservation system down pat. Whether it’s an issued ticket or simply lining up on a first-come-first-served basis, dinner hours in this corner of the market is madness.
We visited HyeongJae YukHoe for no reason besides our gamble that it would get us in the door before any of its neighbouring competitors. Whether this was true or not, we’ll never know, but thanks to similar menus from door to door we don’t believe it was too important to be concerned about.
The menu, unfortunately, is all in Korean, and the pictures do little to help as many of the dishes consist of some combination of raw beef and raw octopus. Ordering is done by marking a slip by the number of that dish you’re ordering in the first empty column. The second is for the waiters, who will total up the price for you. We ordered 1 octopus’ worth of sannakji (낙지1마리; ₩15,000; US$12.40), and a portion of yukhoe (육회; ₩15,000; US$12.40). This was served with a side of beef broth, seasoned with pepper to give a bit of spiciness.
The sannakji, we found, was not as strange as its concept – while the movement of the tentacles on the chopstick was bizarre, the texture was firm and chewy, very similar to cooked octopus, and its flavour also not too dissimilar. It mostly tasted of the sesame oil it was drenched in, which seasoned the meat and likely also prevents the suckers from holding too much grip in your mouth while you eat. While the suction is mild, it’s still recommended that you chew the tentacles properly so as to prevent any choking hazards. This dish is great for anyone who loves seafood and sashimi.
The yukhoe was also not all that strange. The texture of the meat is similar to a firm tuna sashimi, though its flavour a little more savoury as you chew. The Korean pear adds sweetness and a luscious crisp texture, and the yolk makes it a little more decadent. This one is also great for those who love sashimi, as the texture really isn’t too far off – and because of the leanness of the meat and the temperature of the meal, these two made for a surprisingly refreshing dinner.
If you’re keen for either of these, we highly recommend heading to this little alley in GwangJang Market for quality, delicious eats.
HyeongJae YukHoe (형제육회)
200-1 Jong-ro, Jongno 4(sa)-ga, Jongno-gu, Seoul, South Korea
Mon-Sat 9am-11pm (Closed Wed)
Sun 9am-10pm
Website (Korean only)
Black Bean Rice Cakes SinDangDong DdeokBokki (신당동 떡볶이)
Ddeokbokki (떡볶이) is a Korean snack that’s now enjoyed all over the world. A traditional dish of ddeokbokki consists of slices or tubes of chewy glutinous rice cakes in a spicy, salty, sweet, red sauce, as well as additions which can include combination of vegetables, fishcakes, boiled eggs, dumplings, instant noodles, and stretchy cheese to soothe the spice. This is usually eaten as a snack (in this case without all the trimmings) or a meal, but thanks to its addictive texture, flavour, and dirt-cheap price, it’s popular all around.
In the little neighbourhood of SinDang-Dong, however, they do this famous dish a little differently. Legend has it that restaurateur Ma Bok-Rim (마복림) dropped a piece of ddeok (떡) rice cake into a dish of black bean noodle jjajangmyeon (짜장면), resulting in the combination of spicy red sauce and savoury black bean sauce that the area is known for.
After her success in selling the dish, the neighbouring restaurants consequently began selling the same dishes to accommodate for the influx of curious diners, a phenomenon common in Korea and the reason why so many food alleys specialise in just one dish. This area became known as SinDangDong Ddeokbokki Town, because of its fame in selling that dish exactly.
I Love SinDangDong DdeokBokki (아이러브신당동떡볶이)
If you’re in the area there’s no shortage of SinDangDong ddeokbokki restaurants to choose from. I Love SinDangDong DdeokBokki is one of a dozen, if not more, though it’s arguably one of the largest, with a huge storefront and a hall-like dining area. As per usual, we don’t necessarily recommend this one over the others, we simply chose this one because it appeared to be the most frequented. The original Ma Bok-Rim (마복림) restaurant is just across the road.
Upon entering the restaurant, we were greeted with a literal wall of celebrity autographs, which is, in reality, a pretty terrible indicator of how good a restaurant is more than its popularity. The menu, though all in Korean, is pretty basic: there is the standard sindangdong ddeokbokki (신당동떡볶이), which includes the rice cakes and all the trimmings in the spicy red and black bean sauce, and ordering is in portions of 2, 3, or 4 people to be shared by a table.
Besides the standard flavour is also cheese (치즈), seafood (해물), or “tears” (눈물), which means it’s ridiculously spicy. You can also get the dish purely with black bean sauce and none of the red sauce. We ordered the sindangdong ddeokbokki (신당동떡볶이) for 2 at ₩13,000 (US$10.75).
The dish is served with the raw ingredients, sauce, and water in a pan, which is then cooked at the table by the diners – another experience common in Korea. The dish is first cooked at high heat, stirring every so often to prevent sticking to the pan (a mistake we made!), and then the heat is lowered as the sauce reduces and thickens. Once it reaches the desired thickness, you can then turn off the heat. Eating starts at any point you might deem ready, and people’s preferences may vary.
The ddeok rice cake was tooth-tender, but still delightfully chewy, as is the standard. The sauce, however, was much less satisfying to us – because of the strength of the flavour of the red sauce, the black bean sauce is difficult to pick up on. Mostly, it tastes the same as a typical dish of ddeokbokki, of red pepper sauce, salty, sweet, and spicy, delicious but not what we had expected. It’s not bad at all, some people may be able to taste the difference, but we were not one of these. If we were ever to come back – and we really want to! – we would just go for the ddeokbokki with the black bean sauce.
I Love SinDangDong DdeokBokki (아이러브신당동)
302-4 Sindang 1(il)-dong, Jung-gu, Seoul, South Korea
Open 24/7 (Closed 1st and 3rd Mondays of every month)
Though Korea is known for a variety of dishes internationally, the country holds dozens more gems that is yet to be popularised for international visitors. While we would never advise against eating all the famous dishes, we’d definitely recommend having a go at the ones that are less known.