It’s become common knowledge that ramen has variations, and many of these variations arise from regional differences. Outside of Japan, richer, thicker, saltier ramen broths are more popular, thanks to the rise in popularity of the fatty tonkotsu pork bone soup styles due to chains such as Ichiran, Ippudo, and Ajisen. Flavoured tonkotsu ramen have also become normalised on ramen menus outside of Japan, such as shoyu tonkotsu and miso tonkotsu ramen, thanks to the subtle sweet, savoury, and nutty flavour profiles that the additional seasonings lend.

Amongst ramen fans, miso ramen is sometimes associated with Sapporo. While Sapporo’s ramen isn’t the only style in Japan with a miso seasoning, it is true that Sapporo is the most well-known for it. It is lesser known that of the 4 broad ramen types, miso is the most recent creation, and that Sapporo is, in fact, its city of origin, its history traceable back to a single store that is still in operation today.

While the rest of the world is still at the beginning of discovering the rich and flavourful miso ramen, Japan had its own boom, one that catapulted this now-beloved style into the stardom it still holds today. This is Ramen 141: the history, the drama, and the beauty of Sapporo miso ramen.

Table of Contents

History of Miso Ramen Components of Miso Ramen Ramen shops in Sapporo – Aji no Sanpei – Junren and Sumire – Menya Saimi

History of Miso Ramen

If you’ve familiarised yourself with our introduction to ramen, you’ll know that ramen is often broadly grouped by its flavour type: shoyu, shio, miso, and tonkotsu. With the first three being seasonings and the last being a soup type, it would have been appropriate to assume that the tonkotsu was the last to arise, especially due to the prominence of unusual or inventive modern ramen flavours.

However, ramen innovation was initially slow to progress. Shio and shoyu ramen were derived from its Chinese origins sometime in the late 1800s or very early 1900s, and for decades there were minor variations to its preparation depending on the chef or restaurant. It wasn’t until the late 1940s when tonkotsu was accidentally developed, and it was another 10 years before the mere idea of miso ramen was conceived.

This can be credited to Morito Omori (大宮守人), the owner of a restaurant in Sapporo called Aji no Sanpei (味の三平). While some sources claimed that the idea came about after a drunk customer asked the chef to put ramen noodles in their miso soup, it allegedly came about after the chef read an article in Reader’s Digest praising miso, a fermented bean paste, as a health food, but lamenting that it was not being utilised to its full potential. Omori realised that miso’s fermentation process meant that not only was it salty, but it was complex and flavourful, making it the perfect base to season ramen soup as an alternative to salt or soy sauce.

Omori experimented for years using miso from all around the country, feeding trials to his regulars, until he came up with a blend that he was satisfied with. Miso ramen was added to his restaurant menu officially in 1961, giving rise to the first of its kind, and to a style that would later be known as Sapporo ramen.

Since then, miso has been making huge waves. In 1965, department store Takashimya held a product exhibition that featured miso ramen, which introduced the local style to the rest of Japan, where it became an immediate hit. In 1967, ramen store Dosanko (どさん子) opened its doors, growing into a massive chain with impossible speed. At its height of popularity only 10 years later, Dosanko had over 1,100 locations nationally, at the peak of the Sapporo ramen boom.

Since then, there are now other miso ramen types, such as Sendai ramen and Niigata ramen, but Sapporo ramen continues to be the most famous.

Components of Sapporo Ramen

Not all ramen found in Sapporo city will be Sapporo ramen, and not all Sapporo ramen will follow the same template. However, there are components that are typical for a Sapporo ramen.

Soup

Sapporo ramen often uses a pork bone-based soup stock, and a miso-based tare, which is the seasoning that gives it the miso flavour and adds the salt. White miso pastes result in a milder, sweeter flavour, whereas red miso pastes tend to be richer and more savoury. Miso pastes are often blended to add balance and complexity, and this will depend on the chef or the restaurant. The soup is known to be very rich and hearty. Don’t be surprised to see a layer of fat floating on the surface of the soup. This acts as an insulator to keep the soup hot, which is common for ramen in Hokkaido, where temperatures can fall below freezing in the winter. It’s also often seasoned with garlic and ginger.

Noodles

Noodles are an important factor in Sapporo ramen. It is typically thick, soft, and chewy, with distinct, wavy curls. Its high hydration means it can withstand being in the soup without getting soggy or bloated, and the shape is perfect for picking up the rich ramen soup.

Toppings

Standard toppings for Sappor ramen include bean sprouts, green onion, bamboo shoots, and pork, either as slices, shreds, or stir-fried minced pork. Hokkaido is also famous for its agriculture and seafood, so don’t be surprised to find fresh sweetcorn kernels, butter, cheese, or crab offered as a topping to showcase the local fare.

Ramen shops in Sapporo

Unsurprisingly, there are a lot of ramen shops in Sapporo, and you won’t find a shortage of restaurants that specialise in Sapporo specialty dishes like miso ramen. We will detail a few, though you can also find a list of famous Sapporo ramen shops below.

Aji no Sanpei 味の三平

As the creator of miso ramen, this institution is a must-visit for many ramen fanatics visiting the city. This restaurant can strangely be found on the 4th floor of the building of the copy and stationery supply store Daimarufuji, a few minutes’ walk from Odori Station. This tiny restaurant seats only 8 customers at a time, and ordering is done verbally as you come through the door.

Aji no Sanpei is on the more expensive side, with ramen starting at ¥1,000. While this is still considered cheap for many international tourists, for decades, it was unheard of for a basic bowl of ramen to reach this kind of price. This pricing will likely become more common in the near future.

While it is considered expensive, Aji no Sanpei certainly doesn’t skimp on portions. Their miso ramen uses a blend of white miso pastes, and has a distinct cooking wine flavour that accompanies the slight smokiness from its wok-fried bean sprout, onion, and minced pork topping, which cakes up into little patties as it cooks. It is simple, yet flavourful, hearty, and warming, and if for some reason you aren’t full from the gigantic portion, it’s recommended that you add rice to the leftover soup, which is saltier than at the start because of how the miso paste sediments and sinks to the bottom.

If you’re not in the mood for a miso ramen, Aji no Sanpei is also famous for its wonton shoyu ramen (¥1,300). The wontons don’t have much filling but they’re slippery and toothsome. The smoky flavour is also subtly present, and the soy sauce lends a delicate bitter flavour. You can’t go wrong with Aji no Sanpei, and its central location makes it the perfect stop for those who are passing by.

Junren (純連) and Sumire (すみれ)

Sapporo Junren (純連) and Sumire (すみれ) are equally famous Sapporo ramen chains, and are often pitted against each other in the argument regarding whose Sapporo ramen is better. These two stores are almost literally brothers, with their precursor being the ramen restaurant Sumire (純連), run by a woman called Akiko Muranaka (村中明子).

Muranaka ran the popular ramen shop Sumire (純連), whose name written in kanji was often misread as junren by customers. By the time Muranaka’s oldest son Noriaki (村中教愛) took over in 1987, the shop had adopted the name Junren for familiarity. When Muranaka’s 3rd son Nobuyoshi (村中修行), decided to move on from his job in traditional Japanese cuisine and return to ramen, he opened up a ramen shop called Sumire (すみれ), spelled phonetically to avoid ambiguity. As such, Junren is known for its more classic flavour, whereas Sumire is known for its cleaner, lighter flavour, likely reflecting the chef’s background in traditional cuisine.

Both have seen huge successes, each with their own instant noodles, and Sumire holding a stand in the famous Shin-Yokohama Ramen Museum for more than 15 years in total. Many shops try to emulate their success by imitating the Junren and Sumire flavour, giving rise to a sub-category of ramen known as the Jun-Sumi style (純すみ系), named after the two ramen stores, or the Muranaka style (村中系), named after Akiko Muranaka, the chef who perfected the original. You can find a list of ramen stores that offer this specific style here.

Sumire (すみれ) has more locations around the country, making it easier to find and get to. Junren (純連) only has 2 locations, neither of which are in the Sapporo city centre. We happened to have a car so getting to Junren was no trouble, but they only have a handful of parking spaces. We tried the classic miso adding butter and corn to total an eye-watering ¥1,480 (¥980+250+250), as well as the shoyu with wonton at ¥1,130 (¥980+150). The gigantic bowls of ramen are piping hot, and we found their noodles softened very quickly in the soup. While we can’t comment on Sumire’s miso ramen, Junren’s is what we would expect to be an excellent version of the classic – savoury, rich, and nutty thanks to the red miso paste. It’s a flavour that one can tell is iconic and familiar. The shoyu is similar, though less memorable. Junren is an excellent place to stop in Sapporo, but due to its awkward locations, it’s not a must-visit if you can’t fit it in, with so many famous ramen stores in more central locations.

Still, if you decide to go, check out Sapporo Junren’s website to claim ¥50 off any bowl of ramen by handing in the coupon to the waitstaff when you give them your meal tickets.

Menya Saimi 麺屋 彩未

On an endeavour to find the best ramen restaurant in Sapporo, you’ll likely come across Menya Saimi (麺屋 彩未). Located in the suburbs south of Sapporo’s city centre, Saimi takes a little dedication to get to, with the closest bus stops and train stations a few minutes’ walk from the restaurant, and the opening hours minimal. You’re also likely to find queues with how popular this ramen restaurant has become, especially during peak hours, meaning it takes some effort to co-ordinate a trip here.

Saimi’s chef, Masahiko Oku (奥雅彦), trained in one of the kitchens of Sumire (すみれ) before opening up their own kitchen, and has since gone on to train other chefs who have opened up their own restaurants. It’s a small establishment, with a handful of counter seats and a couple of tables, arguably dated decor, if it can be called that at all. Still, most people don’t come to enjoy the atmosphere, and for good reason.

Saimi’s menu is simple, consisting of miso ramen (plain/spicy), shoyu ramen (plain/spicy), and shio ramen. The miso is famous, incredibly complex, layered, savoury, flavourful, and yet light, with perfectly curly, chewy noodles, but the spicy shoyu is the chef’s personal recommendation, and for good reason. The subtle smoky flavour is supported by the bittersweet flavours of the soy sauce, with just enough heat to open the sinuses, increasing the sensitivity to flavours. It is an experience to eat the ramen, and yet somehow the mundaneness of the everyday setting makes it romantically ordinary. It’s definitely not a ramen that would represent Sapporo’s nitty-gritty working class’ taste, but it is a must-try if you’ve had other versions before and want to see how the simple dish can be modernised.

Sapporo ramen is a dish you can’t go wrong with, thanks to the combination of salt, fat, and carbohydrates that makes this dish go down such a treat. There’s an endless number of stores to visit in the city centre to suit every taste, so there’s no need to travel out of the way for the “best” version, something that we’ve come to realise is a meaningless and subjective title. If you’re looking for other places to try, then give any in the following list a go:

• Tetsuya らーめんてつや 南7条本店
• Shingen らーめん 信玄
• Sapporo Ramen Alley 元祖さっぽろラーメン横丁

Let us know if there’s anything that surprised you! All of the information above is viewable on our YouTube video at the top of the page.

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