Taiwan is a small island country undergoing growth in infrastructure, rapidly becoming a very advanced country. It’s one of the leaders in Information and Communication Technology (ICT), and home to the annual COMPUTEX, one of the largest computer and technology conferences in the world. It’s an eclectic mix of culture, resulting from colonisation from the Chinese, Japanese, Spanish and Dutch, and influences from several others thanks to its many port cities. A unique country, Taiwan displays an enigmatic clash of old and new, traditional and modern, all with its own distinct flair.

Despite our consumption of and exposure to Asian culture, there were things we learned while travelling Taiwan that we wish we’d known before. The following may not cover everything, but we hope will act as a useful guide for visitors who haven’t been before.

Entering Taiwan

Taiwan has diverse and flourishing agriculture, and as it’s an island country is generally isolated from others. As such, they have strict biosecurity laws in place to protect this industry. Many signs around the airport upon arrivals warn visitors of restrictions on plant and animal products, especially if they’re fresh. Meat products are prohibited entirely. Sniffer dogs roam the area, so it is taken very seriously.

Fines of up to NTD 1 million (US$33,000) can be issued if these prohibited products are not declared.

Languages

Many languages are spoken in Taiwan, such as indigenous languages. The main two are Mandarin and Taiwanese Hokkien. English is not commonly spoken, nor used on signage outside of the Taipei area. People may have trouble communicating in English, even with basics, though younger locals may be more confident.

It is not unusual to receive a response in Chinese, even if you use English to speak to them. The conversation may carry out entirely as such. However, Taiwanese people are exceptionally friendly and hospitable, and on many occasions we were approached by locals who offered to help us if we showed signs of confusion or distress.

Menus at restaurants typically do not have English, unless aimed at international patrons, such as expensive restaurants. Even some bubble tea stores did not have English menus. If in doubt, ask for an English menu, though in the smaller local restaurants this is likely not available.

We communicated predominantly through very fragmented Mandarin, gestures, and picture references. Things we recommend learning besides basic phrases are numbers, which makes payment and ordering easier, as well as ingredients such as noodles, rice, and different animals, so you can have an idea of what’s on a menu.

Transport

Taiwan has great infrastructure which continues to develop to improve the ease of travel throughout the country.

Transport Cards

There are two main transport cards used throughout Taiwan: EasyCard, which originated in Taipei in the north, and iPass, which started in the southern city of Kaohsiung. Everyone you speak to will say they’re interchangeable, and for the most part they are – like most other transport cards, they can be used for public transport (bus, MRT, rail, and taxis, to name a few), as well as a general stored-value card to pay for purchases in convenience stores, and selected supermarkets, eateries and shops.

Cards cost NTD100 (US$3.35) to buy, with a minimum NTD100 initial load, so you can expect to pay a base price of NTD200 (US$6.70) for your first card. Both types of cards can be purchased throughout the country and can be topped up on the machines in train stations and marked convenience stores. These can be registered for a bigger scope, but requires a Taiwanese local verified ID number.

As mentioned, they are virtually interchangeable save for one difference: during our trip up the Maokong Gondola, we were advised that the NTD20 (US$0.70) discount was available only when using EasyCards which could be used at the gates like one would for an MRT, while the iPass was not valid. This is likely as the Maokong Gondola is located in Taipei, the same city as the EasyCard origin. While there may also be differences in the locations where you can use the cards to pay for purchases, they are otherwise, for the most part, interchangeable.

You can check out the iPass and EasyCard websites (available in English) for more details.

Buses

Many people, including us, prefer to take MRTs or subways over buses as they have definitive routes and stops which make them far more predictable. However, in the case of Taiwan, many cities only have a major railway running through connecting cities, and rely on buses to travel within. While this admittedly caused us some concern, these were quickly assuaged thanks to Taiwan’s incredibly efficient and reliable technology.

Bus routes, stops, and timetables on Google Maps are highly accurate. We relied on the Google Maps app to search for which bus line we needed to take, and while we could count on Google to inform us of the frequency of the buses it was sometimes difficult to determine when the next bus would be when it would only come once an hour.

In this instance, we downloaded the Godor Hsu bus apps for each city we visited – you can search both in English and in Chinese. While we found difficulty in searching for which route to take, it is fairly reliable on updating the real-time locations of the buses. As such, a combination of both Google Maps and the Godor Hsu bus app made for surprisingly stress-free transport within Taiwan.

Public Bikes

For the most part, public bikes are available for use for anyone with a transport card or credit card, though rates will differ in each city. You will need to visit each independent website for more details, such as Kaohsiung’s C-Bike website or YouBike for Taipei.

Rental is simple; each public bike station also has an automated machine (with several language options) which requires you to either use a registered transport card or credit card (typing in the numbers of the card is sufficient). Please note that the same process of inputting your information must be done when returning the bike as well. The appropriate fee will be deducted upon return.

Intercity Travel

There are several options for travelling between cities; from the slowest to the fastest is bus, train, or high speed train. You can check out the Taiwan Railways Administration (TRA) website, Taiwan High Speed Rail (THSR) website, as well as this guide to Taiwanese intercity buses – note that cities or counties have their own system. Generally, the slower the system, the cheaper the prices.

The difference between travelling by rail and by High Speed Rail, besides the time and cost differences is the comfort as well. We travelled exclusively via rail, which was similar to an MTR train though with bathrooms in some carriages. These bathrooms aren’t the cleanest places in the world, so be warned. While we haven’t travelled via High Speed, they have proper allocated seats more alike to an aeroplane, and is generally much more comfortable. You can purchase tickets online via their respective websites, or simply tap on using your stored value transport cards if taking the rail. Using the transport card will discount the fares automatically at the gate.

Taxis

Ubers and other rideshare apps are not commonly used in Taiwan at all. Taxis are still the predominant form of non-shared rides. It is generally not very expensive, with the base rate at around NTD100 (US$3.35). You can pay using your stored value card, of course assuming you have sufficient funds.

Currency and Money

The currency used in Taiwan is the New Taiwan Dollar (NTD). US$1 is about NTD30. Taiwan is still largely a cash-based society, so it is a good idea to have NTD on hand while you travel. Places like night markets and local restaurants will only accept cash, though bigger establishments like fast-food chains or large restaurants may accept credit (or payment via transport card).

Bills are available in 100, 200, 500, 1,000, and 2,000 denominations. Coins are in 1, 5, 10, 20, and 50. NTD100 bills are common, but anything more than 500 is not as commonly used. Each bill is easily distinguishable by its colour, and the coins by size and shape, so it is fairly straightforward when it comes to using them.

Converting Cash

Taiwan has a highly-regulated system for currency conversions. You can only switch cash at registered locations, which, for the most part, means banks and airports. Some charge fees for converting cash, while others don’t. We recommend asking your accommodation host or staff for the best place to convert cash.

SIM Cards

There are several options for Telecommunications companies in Taiwan, with the most common that we noticed being ChungHwa, Taiwan Mobile, FarEasTone, and T Star. We went with ChungHwa, who we were told was the biggest and presumably the widest coverage. Rates for different plans are generally the same price for any of these companies, in order to remain competitive.

Food

Taiwan is small, so the variation between cities is not as expansive as other countries. While there are regional specialties, we found that we could generally find any dish in most cities, as long as you know where to look. For example, we spotted Tainan’s danzi mian (擔仔麵) and ba-wan (肉圓) in several of the cities we visited.

Restaurants

There are 2 main methods of ordering: verbally, as most western countries would, or by filling out a card located at the table and handing it in. You may have to fill in details such as table number (桌號) if you are eating in (內用) or whether you are getting takeaway (外帶). Mark your order by writing down the number of portions you want for each menu item.

We discovered that you don’t have to visit the most famous restaurants to find delicious food in Taiwan, as documented in our Eat Your Neighbourhood series in Tainan, Keelung, and Taipei. We simply searched for restaurants on Google Maps by zooming in on our area and picking the ones with ratings of 4.0 or higher. Those with reviews predominantly in Chinese often means that the score is reflected by a local palate, which we took to mean guaranteed authentic food.

Alternatively, search for the name of a dish (e.g. “beef noodle soup” or in Chinese “牛肉麵”). As many restaurants specialise in a small number of dishes, they often feature the dish’s name in its name. Then, filter for the higher ratings in the area you’re looking to visit. Though not 100% foolproof, it has done consistently well for us throughout our travels.

Ordering to share dishes is perfectly normal in Taiwan, so long as it’s a reasonable amount of food. They didn’t bat an eye when we ordered 1 bowl of noodles between 2.

It is common for restaurants to have self-serve cutlery, clean dishes, condiments, and drinks. In the corner of a restaurant you will often find a communal shelf or table for you to help yourself to, so search for this before you look to request it from a waitstaff.

Tipping is not practised. We also would not encourage it, unless it is indicated, more likely in expensive restaurants as you pay.

Dietary Restrictions

Vegetarianism is common Taiwan, thanks to the country’s foundations in Buddhism. A huge government campaign also encouraged locals to eat vegetarian once a week in order to reduce meat consumption.

This is widely successful, and as such you can find vegetarian restaurants all over the country serving local dishes. We even visited a vegetarian dim sum restaurant – an impressive feat considering a typical yum cha’s reliance on chicken stock and pork fat for flavour.

However, allergies and intolerances may be a little harder to communicate – as the country relies on soy and gluten in vegetarian cooking, it is fairly common to see them in any style of restaurant. Peanuts and sesame seeds are also a common topping for many dishes, so those with allergies or intolerances are advised to be vigilant when dining in Taiwan.

Night Markets

Some night markets are open daily, whereas others have allocated days of the week. As such, we recommend searching up the opening times and days when looking to visit. Typically, there are three sections to night markets: games, shopping (general merchandise and clothes), and food. Food vendors can either be stalls from which you order street food, or sit-down establishments for bigger dishes. We recommend you refrain from sitting at these tables if not consuming the vendor’s food, out of courtesy for the stall owners and other customers.

To some extent, you can find the same food items throughout every night market. Examples include QQ balls, grilled skewers, papaya milk, pearl milk tea, fried squid, fried chicken, stinky tofu, grilled steak cubes, bakery bread, Taiwanese sausages, and pancakes cooked in iron moulds. There are some items that are less commonly found, such as the pepper buns at RaoHe Night Market, coffin toast at the Garden Night Market, or the salted egg and pork floss taro balls at NingXia.

Rubbish bins (trash cans) are provided at most night markets we visited. Otherwise, we can recommend popping into a convenience store to discard any trash. Note that this might be a little rude, but it’s better than dumping it out on the streets.

Keelung Night Market is an exception to the typical. While they have a generic night market in the evenings, there are also permanent stalls with seats and many unique dishes, most notably potage (羹湯) and oil rice (油飯). We highly recommend checking it out if you’re in Keelung for an evening, as it’s an entirely different dynamic with a whole other style of food.

Convenience Stores and Supermarkets

The most common chains of convenience stores are 7-11 and Family Mart. Hi-Life, OK Marts, and other independent convenience stores are also very easy to find. They have fairly consistent prices all the way through and generally offer a similar experience, with the exception of differences in the products offered by the store brand.

Supermarkets are usually Carrefour, PX Mart, and Wellcome. They are also fairly easy to come across within each neighbourhood, if you’re prepared to travel a little bit further for it.

Souvenirs

Pineapple Cakes

These are rampant throughout Taiwan, with an impressive history. We recommend reading our blog entry on pineapple cakes for a more comprehensive guide to these iconic local pastries.

Art – Handmade or Not?

Art is huge in Taiwan, with many murals, art markets, and art stores throughout the country. We would highly recommend purchasing art as souvenirs, which can vary from jewellery, to printed trinkets, and other general merchandise for a unique gift.

In saying that, we came across several items throughout Taiwan whose vendors claimed that they were handmade by them instore. While we don’t doubt that there is craftsmanship involved in any souvenir on sale, we aren’t sure whether these guarantees are truthful.

There was more than one instance where we found merchandise with such a claim in a completely different city on the other side of the country. That being said, we wouldn’t have bought it if we didn’t like it, so we didn’t regret our purchases, but we still recommend not taking such claims too high in regard.

KAOHSIUNG

Kaohsiung is a quiet little city near the ocean. We found it a little more spread out than cities like Tainan and definitely much more so than Taipei. While it is quiet it’s also undergoing huge progression in infrastructure – it is one of only a couple of cities with its own MRT line that runs in a plus-shape through the city. Thanks to this, public transport in Kaohsiung was by far the easiest.

Public Bikes

Kaohsiung was by far the cheapest in terms of bike fares, so we valued it a lot. The first half hour during public bike rentals is free, regardless of whether you use a local ID-registered transport card or a credit card. We found ourselves jumping from one bike rental station to another in 30-minute periods – while we don’t recommend doing this too much, it does cut down some travel costs (though honestly, not by much) and we certainly had fun riding bikes for the first time in years.

TAINAN

Tainan is a little older than Taipei, but equally compact. It’s a city of food, arguably with some of our best eating experiences located in the night markets and just around our AirBnb on Kaiyuan Road. Tainan might not offer the largest range of activities, but with day trips to Anping Fort and the incredible Chimei Museum nearby, there’s no shortage of places to visit in between the most delicious meals. This was Jos’ favourite city for food.

Public Transport

Tainan does not have its own MRT line, only the main rail that goes through the city connecting to other cities. As such, we found ourselves relying on buses. Footpaths are narrower and a bit uneven, so we didn’t consider it such a bike-friendly city, though we never did attempt riding in Tainan.

TAICHUNG

Taichung has a more suburban feel, developing into a much more modern hub. There is an MRT line in construction with its first line due to open in 2020. Until then, it is much like Tainan in that there is only one rail line through the whole city.

Taichung is the gateway to some incredible things to do. It’s only a couple of hours by bus to Sun Moon Lake, possibly one of our most favourite experiences of our entire trip. We also highly recommend checking out the Feng Chia Night Market (逢甲夜市). Its location near a university makes it popular among students, and as such has some excellent shopping and extremely tasty dining options.

KEELUNG

Keelung is a port city, and a very old one at that. It has many tall, tightly packed old buildings, the kind that suggest it was once a lucrative place to do business and drew a lot of people to live in the city quickly. It’s the stop-off point of many huge cruise ships, so it understandably has a little more of an ostentatious touristy vibe, depending on where you go.

It’s a fairly small city, relatively walkable, with bus options. The trains in and out of Keelung all first head towards Badu, and while you can take a direct train to Taipei, you will need to transfer to go east to the Ruifang District onwards, which makes it slightly inconvenient. Still, it is a completely different city on its own, with a unique vibe and a night market that doesn’t begin to compare to any other we visited in Taiwan.

TAIPEI

Like most Asian countries we visit, the capital city is unlike the others. It has excellent infrastructure, with a very comprehensive MRT line, frequent buses, and plenty of taxis.

Shopping

For budget shopping like we prefer, there are often 2 main places in Taiwan that are mentioned: WuFenPu, and ShiDa. Both are neighbourhoods full of boutique, unbranded, fast-fashion shops, though they differ slightly.

WuFenPu is on the cheaper side, with clothes ranging from around NTD150-300 (US$5-10). They have an incredible range with a lot of styles from lacy to cutesy to hype beast, with options for men’s, children’s, and some “plus size” fashion (though the sizes are more for those who are plump, as they don’t cover the scope of western sizes). The quality is commendable considering the price, but don’t expect clothes that will last dozens of washes.

ShiDa is close to a university area, with nicer boutique shops whose clothes range from around NTD300-600 (US$10-20). There are fewer shops more sparsely distributed around the neighbourhood. We found that the styles tend to be a little more consistent, catering towards the trend of neat, cute, preppy, Asian fashion.

Taiwan is an indescribably unique country, proud of its art, its food, and its people, and rightfully so. With some of the friendliest locals and a genuine passion for their craft, this country offers so much in such a small amount of space, leaving something for everyone to enjoy. Be it a family trip to Anping Fort, a group trip to the artsy Old Street of Jiufen, a solo trip to the expansive Buddhist Fo Guang Shan Temple, or a couple’s retreat to the fantasy resort-like Sun Moon Lake, Taiwan is not only a breeze to travel and easy on the pocket, but it will leave you coming back for more.