Penang Road Famous Teochew Chendul is not only a mouthful, but also a huge name in Malaysia. Originating in Georgetown, Penang, this alleyway boasts local cuisine that has become so reputed over its decades of existence that has now become a franchise, of which its stores can be found nation-wide. True to its name, we visited the little street for an early dinner and found it packed with both locals and tourists alike, seeking some of their favourite dishes.
The alley is not located in Penang Road, but off one of its side streets on Lebuh Keng Kwee. There is no single kitchen operating. Instead, multiple vendors sell their fare from their carts outside which can be taken away or eaten in the seated restaurants behind. There are two methods of ordering: you can place an order with a vendor to be sent to your table, or wait for vendors to pass by and offer dishes, which they will bring to you. Don’t rely on the second, especially when it’s busy. In either case, payments are made when the food comes to your table.
The Assam Laksa
One Malaysian friend told us before we left that if assam (or asam) laksa is not on the menu of a Malaysian restaurant, then it’s not legitimate. Assam laksa is such an integral part of Malaysian cuisine because it cannot be found elsewhere. Unlike the coconut-broth laksa commonly found in Singapore and Indonesia, this Penang speciality is made with a mackerel broth and asam (tamarind), which lends its pungent fishy and asam (sour) flavours. It is then topped with herbs and pineapples, for more of that sweet-sharp-sour flavour.
To be honest, we’re not sure where you can find the best assam laksa, but this one makes for a good first time. The broth is deep and rich in flavour, balanced in its sweet, salty, sour, spicy, and umami. Though it may be a shocking experience to some, it has a distinct fishiness similar to the juice at a bottom of a tin of tuna, though hardly as strange as it sounds. Simultaneously, it’s clean in flavour despite its complexity, so it doesn’t become heavy or boring as you eat.
To top it off is the thick rice noodles that have the slight bouncy texture. Its smooth surface makes for easy slurping, picking up all that delicious, hearty broth with it. A satisfying dish.
The Chendul
On to dessert! Chendul (or cendol) is a dessert commonly found in Southeast Asia consisting of green jelly-like noodles amongst other additions, which can include beans, corn, and sago balls, all in coconut milk over crushed ice and sweetened with palm sugar. This dessert is what many come by for, especially as the road is named after it. The chendul stand can be found right at the corner near the main road, and it’s difficult to miss because of its long queues. Regardless, it moves pretty fast as bowls are made up in quick succession, so the wait time depends mostly on how long it takes customers to pay.
The chendul here is not particularly sweet, with the distinct caramel-coconut flavour from the palm sugar. Oddly, it has an underlying taste of corn, though we aren’t too sure whether it’s normal in Penang or Malaysia. This one has a good amount of red and kidney beans in it to, contributing to texture and that familiar beany flavour in Asian desserts.
Let’s be honest, though. Is this really the best, or is it riding on the coat-tails of its fame? It’s reigned for so long that it’s hard to say whether it deserves to sit at the top or it’s simply difficult to dethrone such a giant. We never ate chendul following this occasion, as there’s just too much good food around, so we could never really tell you. But if you’re looking for a dish that’s at least decent, this spot is centrally located and not too expensive at all.
Penang Road Famous Teochew Chendul
4-2, Lebuh Keng Kwee, George Town, 10100 George Town, Pulau Pinang, Malaysia
10am-7.30pm
