South Korea is not large – its landmass is roughly half the size of the United Kingdom, one quarter of Japan, or one hundredth of that of the USA. It also only shares its northern border with North Korea, with the rest of its border coastal. Yet, many of the cities are landlocked, thanks to its fairly uniform shape, which means it is home to a range of environments, including many scenic parks, mountains, and forests.

Busan is no exception. As a port city located on the south-eastern corner of the peninsula country, it has the best of both the sea and land, the city boasting of famous beaches, hiking mountains, and everything in between. The sheer number of activities, sites, specialty dishes, and annual events is much of the reason why Busan is one of the most visited cities in South Korea.

Keen to explore Busan on foot, we took to visiting two of Busan’s most famous tourist sites, one each on a hilltop and by the sea to observe the range of tourist locations in the dynamic city.

GamCheon Culture Village (감천문화마을)

GamCheon is the name on everyone’s lips when they visit Busan. Known as the Machu Picchu of Busan, this village located on the steep hills of the SaHa district is packed with layers of brightly-coloured houses whose seemingly-disorganised layout creates an incredible mosaic of life-size proportions. Built in the 1920-1930s, the village was originally to provide housing for refugees and the poor away from the port city, though still local enough that residents can lend their labour.

The slum city has since undergone renovations. Through an art project to revitalise the area, houses were painted into bright colours to attract visitors. Despite its history, GamCheon now sees hundreds of tourists daily, both foreign and domestic, who visit for the sights and for the atmosphere in this dream-like village on a hill.

Getting There

It is not recommended to walk up to the village, as the hills are very steep and the paths winding, so it’s likely easy to get lost. The easiest form of public transport to take up is by bus, of which you can take several routes. Commonly, the bus stop near JaGalChi Station (자갈치역) has 3 routes to the village: Saha-Gu 1-1 (사하구1-1); Seo-Gu 2 (서구2); and Seo-Gu 2-2 (서구2-2).

We found that buses heading up are also labelled “GAMCHEON Culture Village” to reduce any ambiguity for tourists. This is repeated in Chinese (甘川文化村) and in Korean (감천문화마을). Though the bus has a couple of stops on the way to the village, many alight at the stop for the Culture Village, making it easy to follow.

Things to Do

The GamCheon Culture Village has plenty of activities which can make a trip up a full-day event. Besides plenty of standard snacks and Korean street foods to sample through the entire village area, there are also exhibitions and museums, souvenir stores with unique and often hand-made trinkets, and of course an endless number of photo opportunities.

There is an information centre near the main bus stop of the village where you can purchase a map for ₩2,000 (US$1.65). In it, you can also use it to collect stamps from all throughout the village, and once all have been found this can be used to swap out for a special prize. We wish we’d participated in this, as we had in Taiwan’s Sun Moon Lake, as having a goal makes us feel more involved in the location. However, there’s little chance of getting lost as the village entrance with the main bus stop is on high ground, fairly visible from throughout the village, so don’t feel obliged to buy a map.

Photo opportunities are endless in the village, thanks to the collaborative work of many artists. There are many different styles and murals from the bizarre to the playful to the eye-catching. There’s no shortage of colours and textures, with plenty of 3-dimensional pieces that make for some incredible spots for photographs. Keep in mind that some popular art pieces such as the statue of the Little Prince may have queues to create order, and this should be respected. You never know what you’ll encounter with something new at every turn, making the entire village your playground.

There are also plenty of souvenir stores, many of which are boutique. Many are even hidden, down alleys or beneath photo spots. A popular stop is the Handmade Store a couple of hundred metres from the entrance, which sells (as suggested) handmade trinkets such as magnets and keychains, and postcards. Another is a souvenir shop located in the village which takes a little searching to get to. True to the brand of GamCheon, there is art everywhere, and we recommend supporting local artists to take home some truly unique souvenirs.

We also purchased salt at a store near the information centre, as the village specialises in producing a mineral salt that is less salty than table salt. There are several sizes available, and while it doesn’t have any other flavour besides salty, it is much less sharp and salty than other salts, or at least we’ve found.

Keep in mind that many stores in Korea tend to have Mondays off, and the same can be said for many outlets in the village. That being said, this is the best day if you’re looking for a sleepy vibe with fewer people. We also recommend visitors to be aware that there are residents within many of the houses in the village, so we ask that you respect that this tourist attraction is a residence for many. In any case, there’s a reason why GamCheon Culture Village is the top location for many tourists, and a visit can certainly tell you why.

TaeJongDae Park (태종대)

The south-easternmost corner of the south-eastern city of Busan is home to TaeJongDae (태종대), a natural park famed for its sea-facing cliffs carved by the ocean. The entire peninsula which covers the area of the park has been converted into an amusement area with entertainment facilities and informative exhibitions, making it an ideal location for both the sights and for an insight into the geopark.

Getting There

Plenty of buses head to TaeJongDae Park. The best means of arriving is to first take a train to Nampo-Dong Station (남포동역), then taking a bus from outside Exit 6 of the station. Routes include Bus No. 8, 30, 66, 88, and 186, though we recommend taking a look on Google Maps.

Once alighting the bus, follow the signs to the entrance of the Park past the roundabout at the end of the road. There is an Information Centre located at the roundabout exit that leads up to the Park, so simply follow this road. Partway up, there is a building and a station for the Park’s Danubi Train, which is where you’ll find the entrance to TaeJongDae.

Things to Do

The Park has no shortage of activities and attractions. The area is laid out on a connecting circuit along a hill. At intervals along the circuit there are facilities such as observation decks, exhibitions, and photo spots, which is often marked by what appears to be bus stops. These are for the Danubi Train, which is a trackless train that makes frequent rounds on the circuit. Tickets are ₩3,000 for adults, which is valid for the day. The train stops at the major points of interest, though they may forego a couple of small viewing platforms.

That being said, the circuit is not difficult to walk as it is mostly shaded thanks to an abundance of trees, and not particularly steep. There are viewing platforms and spots of interest located every 300-700 metres, so there are plenty of places to catch your breath along the way. Facilities such as bathrooms are also fairly common, though you won’t necessarily find places to sit.

One of the popular attractions to visit is the Lighthouse, which is located at the second stop if you’re taking the Danubi Train. The lighthouse is located further down the cliff, which can be accessed via a long flight of stairs downwards. There is also a small exhibition in the main building with information on marine life, though much of this is in Korean.

At the lighthouse, there are stairs that descend further right down to the water’s edge, where there are vendors selling fresh seafood dishes for those who are keen to sample some of the freshest fish in the city. We didn’t go all the way down as we had had lunch before, but if we were ever to visit again we wouldn’t pass up the opportunity to sample some local seafood. Beware that getting back up is exhausting – there are a lot of stairs involved. In any case, there are some fantastic views from the viewing decks and the lighthouse, so even if you’re not here to eat, you can sure fill a camera roll very quickly.

At a leisurely pace, we covered the circuit in about 2 hours, taking time to take photos at many of the stops along the way. The peaceful atmosphere and the stunning views of endless blue sea and majestic cliff-faces are what make this destination so attractive. One thing to note is that besides a couple of convenience stores and the seafood vendors at the lighthouse there aren’t any dining options on the circuit, so it’s best to plan a meal before or after. We recommend JeonJu SikDang (전주식당) right at the bus stop outside TaeJongDae Park, for some delicious Korean-style stews.