Bánh mì ốp la is a Vietnamese breakfast dish consisting of the bánh mì (bread) and ốp la (fried eggs) amongst other toppings. These can include any combination of hams and other meats, onions, and served with a side of fresh vegetables and pickles.
The dish, though popular to begin with, was arguably made more popular by the one and only Mark Wiens. The YouTuber, blogger, and food traveler opened the floodgates of mainstream notoriety when he declared a humble ốp la restaurant in Ho Chi Minh City to serve the best breakfast he had in Vietnam. Inevitably, the crowds followed. Those who visit Bánh Mì Hòa Mã can expect queues, and little else. The establishment, with tiny tables and stools operating out of an open alleyway, doesn’t exist for the ambience. Serving good food fast, the fun dining experience of filling up the bread however you desire makes for a good time, provided, of course, it isn’t raining.
When we were in Saigon, we ate at the famous Bánh Mì Hòa Mã. Delicious? Certainly. Touristy? Well, that’s debatable. There are plenty of locals flocking to the tiny eatery, despite equal hordes of tourists looking for a delicious way to start the morning. Still, with crowds like those, and a good number of foreigners it’s also no surprise that the price is considerably high, too. If you’re patient enough to wait for a table, one portion will set you back around đ52,000 (US$2.25). Not outrageous to many travellers, but we would argue it’s almost unthinkable when the average bánh mì ốp la is half that – and oftentimes, even less.
It may have been the best breakfast Mr. Wiens indulged himself in when he was visiting the lovely country of Vietnam, but the question remains: was it ours? We would say: hard no. That’s not to say the food isn’t enjoyable – it is. A crusty baguette topped with savoury Vietnamese pâté mopped through a runny egg yolk and the beloved salty-sweet-funky-umami Vietnamese Maggi seasoning sauce… you can’t really go wrong.
Still, we encountered some good contenders out there in our 3 weeks eating the country, and it just so happens that one of the biggest competitors for best Vietnamese breakfast we ate is a very close cousin of the ốp la, if the same dish were a little more beefy, and a lot more flamboyant.
Bò Né Khanh
Cue bò né ốp la, the Vietnamese answer to steak and eggs. We hadn’t expected to eat this dish at all, but passing by this restaurant several days in a row very close to our Airbnb made it difficult to resist. Bò Né Khanh is always packed full in the mornings, even on weekdays, so we knew we had to try it.
Each portion comes on a hotplate topped with coriander leaves, tomato, and spring onion, a bánh mì (baguette), and a bowl of broth. Leave the photos for after! This dish is eaten by pouring the broth onto the hotplate as soon as you get it, so that the liquid deglazes the hotplate, releasing plumes of mouth-watering steam, sizzling all the while. Leave it to cool too much and you’re left with a sad snuffle and the lovely steak and eggs sitting in a pool of soup. Not ideal. Time it well, and it’s a multi-sensory experience for sure, and a delight for all you Insta-stars.
We ordered one bánh mỳ bít tết, ốp la, xíu mại (baguette with steak, fried eggs, and Vietnamese siu mai / meatballs) in small size (nhỏ), and one bánh mỳ ốp la xíu mại (baguette with fried eggs and siu mai meatballs). This was đ60,000 (US$2.60) and đ27,000 (US$1.20) respectively, with the only difference being in the bít tết (steak).
When in Vietnam, we recommend doing as the locals do and dotting Maggi seasoning sauce all over the hotplate before you begin. Its complex salty and savoury flavour adds a layer of umami to the dish to bring out the meaty flavours.
The steak is surprisingly flavourful and soft, likely tenderised due to it being a fairly cheap cut of meat. Similarly, the xíu mại is very tender with a sausage-like consistency probably from a starch used to soften the meat. The tomatoes make for a nice acidic touch, and the lettuce and cucumbers served on the side reduces the greasiness of the meal in general. Add the Da Nang chilli jam for the perfect touch of sweet and spicy.
Once evaporated, the soup reduces to a thick sauce on the tray. It’s the ideal time for mopping up with the bread, or even just eating straight with a spoon. There’s no hard and fast rule to eating. There were people who ripped the bread apart to make little pockets, and others simply alternated eating one and then the other.
We would recommend leaving a little bit of bread to scoop dry all the last little bits of meat and juice at the end of the meal, or you can eat it up with a spoon. One thing’s for sure though – it’s packed with flavour, and makes for a full meal indeed.
Much like western steak and eggs for breakfast, bò né ốp la is one of those hearty starts to the morning which will keep you going for a good, long while. It’s a beefy alternative to the standard porky bánh mì ốp la. Perhaps not necessarily better, but it’s a dish that’s ready to fight for a spot at the top of the breakfast pyramid if there were ever such a thing.
Bò Né Khanh
41 Đường Hoàng Văn Thụ, Phước Ninh, Hải Châu, Đà Nẵng 550000, Vietnam
Mon-Sun 6am-11am (hours according to Foody)
Bò Né Khanh Foody listing
Bánh Mì Hòa Mã (Mark Wiens’ recommendation for bánh mì ốp la)
53 Cao Thắng, Phường 3, Quận 3, Hồ Chí Minh, Vietnam
Mon-Sun 7am-10am
Bánh Mì Hòa Mã Foody listing
