Japan has a lot of regional cuisine and Tokyo is no exception. One of the most famous dishes in Japan that is most commonly associated to Tokyo is monjayaki (もんじゃ焼き), a sort of confused dish of a liquid batter and chopped ingredients cooked on a hotplate griddle, similar to the more famous Japanese okonomiyaki (お好み焼き) a thick savoury pancake topped with a distinct thick, brown fruity Worcestershire sauce, and any combination of mayonnaise, spring onions, and anything else that suits your fancy.
Monjayaki, also known as just monja, is surprisingly far less famous than okonomiyaki despite preceding it, with few non-Japanese knowing of its existence. The ingredients of both are very similar, consisting of chopped vegetables, and any combination of meat, seafood, cheese, rice cake, etc., mixed with a batter, though monjayaki batter contains more water or dashi fish broth. This results in what is often described as a runny, vomit-like consistency and appearance, and remains thick and not quite solid when it’s cooked through, eaten straight from the hotplate itself. It sounds and looks questionable, though of course the reality is much more appealing than that.
Tsukushima District Monja Street – the Birthplace of Monjayaki
Monjayaki allegedly originated in the 1900s in a little restaurant in the Tsukishima district of Tokyo, just a handful of stops from the central Tokyo Station. During the war, when pencils and paper were expensive and scarce, children would visit the shop and practice writing in the runny batter on the hotplates using a tiny spatula, thus resulting in a dish known as mojiyaki (grilled letters).
The unique dish became associated with the Tsukishima area, and there are now dozens of restaurants on Tsukishima Monjadori (Tsukishima Monja Street) which specialises in this dish. The street is backed by an association who promotes the dish (there’s even a mascot, in true Japanese fashion!). More information on the street can be found on their website (Japanese only), including the names of all of the monjayaki restaurants as well as their locations, opening times, and the recommended menu items. There are very old establishments with zashiki seating on the floor, as well much newer and more modern restaurants, each with their own selling points and special items, so there’s a place for everyone.
Noto Honten (能登 本店)
This restaurant is one of the older places on Monja Street. It’s a fairly cramped place, with two floors and zashiki floor seating. Their menu is simple, consisting of different flavours of monjayaki and okonomiyaki, as well as other items for the hotplate, and a couple of simple desserts. We opted for one of their popular monjayaki flavours, not on the menu but posted on the wall, a monjayaki with mentaiko (salted pollock roe), mochi (chewy glutinous rice cake), and cheese (明太子もちチーズもんじゃ焼き), which at the time of our visit was ¥1,450 (US$12.55).
Cooking monjayaki
The waitress offered to cook it for us which we gratefully accepted – the key is to tip the solid ingredients onto the hotplate first, mixing and chopping it with the spatula until cooked through. This is then formed into a ring, and then the liquid batter at the bottom of the bowl poured into the centre in 2 to 3 stages to prevent it from leaking and running too much on the hotplate, mixing for a few seconds until thickened enough not to run, and then mixing everything in together. Once at the desired consistency, it can be left on the hotplate in a thick puddle until the bottom has caramelised to the desired colour, keeping in mind that the monjayaki itself remains a fairly gooey consistency and pale colour even when cooked through. This is then eaten using the tiny spatulas provided, by scooping it up or smushing it firmly onto the hotplate until it sticks to the spatula.
Despite many comparing monjayaki to okonomiyaki, it is definitely an entirely different experience. Because of the gloopy final form of monjayaki, it’s actually a little chewy, and nothing like a firm, solid pancake. It’s piping hot because of the hotplate, and though our monjayaki didn’t crisp on the bottom it did have a delicious toasty flavour not dissimilar to cheese when it melts, browns, and crisps up in the oven (likely thanks to the cheese that was in our order). The cheese and the mentaiko made our particular order a little salty, but the rice cakes also made the flavour mild and the texture a little chewier. There are an endless number of flavour combinations, so even though we very much enjoyed our one, we highly recommend getting something that sounds good to you. Some fancy flavours we saw doing our rounds included things like scallop and lemon, squid ink, coconut milk curry, and tomato monjayaki. The combinations are endless!
We also ordered an anzumaki apricot roll (あんず巻) for dessert (¥520, US$4.50), which they cooked for us as well. This consisted of a crepe batter which was poured onto the hotplate first, followed by a line of canned apricots which were then rolled up in the crepe, and then finished with a sugar syrup. We loved the slight tartness of the canned apricots and the softness of the crepe. It’s a great way to finish a meal for those who like fruits or their desserts not too sweet.
This popular restaurant is definitely a great one to try in our opinion, but because of its zashiki floor seating and narrow stairs up to the second floor it’s definitely not ideal for people who need better accessibility. Definitely check out the Tsukishima Monja Association website for information on all the restaurants in the area, as you’re sure to find something that suits you.
Noto Honten (能登 本店)
3 Chome-13-12 Tsukishima, Chuo City, Tokyo 104-0052, Japan
Mon-Fri 5.30pm-10.00pm
Sat-Sun 12.00pm-10.00pm
Monjayaki Website Listing (Japanese only)
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